Choosing a Pair of Polarized Fishing Glasses

The necessity of having polarized glasses as an important piece of equipment for the angler is the topic of discussion here. Polarized glasses, as opposed to regular sunglasses, allow us to identify key dynamics of a stream or river, such as where our quarry may take up refuge or a feeding lane. This prevents the angler from making a lot of blind casts and wasting valuable fishing time. The most common color used is a gray lens. Color of lenses vary from light gray to dark gray depending on the brand. Gray lenses are best at maintaining natural colors while minimizing brightness but they do lack the ability to enhance contrast.

Lens colors also comes in shades of amber. These are "my choice" which I consider a happy medium. They tone down brightness and will give contrast that is vital when stream and river characteristics include boulders and other structures. Take note of the side shields on the amber pair of glasses to the right. if the pair of optics you have chosen does not feature side protection, then i strongly recommend adding a pair which simply slide down the stems. They are made usually of a pliable plastic that will not add too much weight. Making this addition dampers your peripheral vision which will keep the angler more focused and will tire your eyes less.

Last but not the least, rose colored glasses are by far the best at sighting fish if the dynamics of the river are mostly part void of structures and water visibility is fairly clear.

- Mark DeFrank

How to Choose a Pair of Waders

Since this is about choosing a pair of waders to suit your needs I'm simply going to point out some choices and characteristics to look for. Each individual has different needs and considerations that come into play when choosing a pair of waders. Hip boots can be a a good choice if the streams you plan on wading are fairly shallow and you do not plan on wading deep water. They are relatively inexpensive and are available in rubber, neoprene or a breathable fabric. Touching base on hip boots sets up the next choice at hand...waist high waders. The main consideration here is how deep you will possibly be wading. They will definitely be cooler in warm weather, but you also can purchase chest high waders that convert to waist highs. If you'll be wading deep waters then you will obviously want a pair of chest high waders.

Now that we have covered types of waders, lets discuss features. I will start from the top down. Shoulder straps - do they have enough adjustment and padding if any at all. Chest compartments - just inner or inner and outer, or does the outer compartment sport any bling such as zingers and tippet spool pockets? Are there hand pockets on the side of the compartment lined with fleece to warm your hands on days with a slight chill in the air? Wading belt - most waders come with either an adjustable standardized belt or an adjustable elastic belt. Belts can also be purchased separately and are inexpensive if the one supplied is not of your liking. Seams - are they double or triple stitched on the inside of the legs? Today some of the high end waders are sporting more stitching and you will find that the seams are being placed on the back or front of the legs resulting in less wear and lower probability of leaks in that area. Is there any reinforcement? Do the knees have an extra outer shell or multi ply reinforcement. How many plys do the overall waders have? Boot foot or stocking foot - Boot foot are easier to dawn and doff and in my opinion keep your feet warmer, however they tend to be more expensive. The soles are on them may not be to your liking and compared to stocking foot, it is more likely that the boots will outlive the waders. Breathability - "of course applying to breathable waders only" are they Gore-tex, the leading manufacturer in breathable apparel, or another type/brand of breathable fabric. Size - some brands of waders have a limited size range where others can accommodate more of a size range, and can in fact even customize your pair to your size specs. Be aware that all brands size charts vary so I strongly suggest you compare sizing while also weighing the other options and durability of each you may be considering.

I believe that it rests on the individual regarding how much to spend on a pair of waders by how much time you will actually spend in them. For the person who may only wear them a couple of weekends a year you could easily get away with a relatively inexpensive pair. At the other end of the spectrum would be the hardcore angler that should dive in a little deeper or find themselves purchasing less costly waders more frequently. But in the long run buying a more expensive pair of waders may have been a break even proposition and resulted in less hassle.

- Mark DeFrank

Choosing a Pair of Wading Boots

Let's talk boots! First and foremost keep in mind you are going to spend some time in them and comfort should be priority one. The worst thing that can happen is being on the trip of a lifetime and to find out your boots are now killing your feet. Take these things into consideration when choosing your boots.

Support

Do they provide sufficient ankle support to prevent twisting or breaking an ankle or even worse a terrible fall causing greater physical injury.

Fit

Don't buy a size too large or your feet are going to slip and slide inside causing damage to your neoprene booty by excessive wear and tear while at the same time losing proper support.

Traction

There are many types of soles that are applied to wading boots. You have hard rubber lug soles (can be very treacherous on larger rocks and algae covered bottoms "It's like walking on greased bowling balls"; soft rubber (referred to as sticky rubber); felt (banned in a few states with all to follow suit); felt with studs; rubber with studs and also interchangeable systems (very advantageous). Felt is on it's way to being obsolete so I would stay away. My preference is rubber with removable aggressive studs which are great for walking the trails streamside or traversing rocky streambeds and algae covered rocks.

Durability

Generally speaking durable is usually coupled with good support.

Frankly speaking, low end or entry level boots are going to lack one or more important traits mentioned above, so keep in mind that they are what is carrying you, and your well being is important to stay healthy to fish another day.

- Mark DeFrank

Choosing a Wading Jacket

Illustrated is a high end Wading Jacket, and by all means I'm not suggesting you need to spend your entire paycheck on a jacket. It has all the features I look for when choosing one, however it will outlast a low end jacket, it simply is made of higher quality materials. First of all I want a large hood with storm flaps that fold over to cover the face. You also want the front zipper to come up high. Large pockets with at least one that is waterproof to keep valuables safe is a plus. Make sure the fit is roomy for layers of additional clothing for cold days and wider shoulders for movability. Neoprene fleece lined adjustable cuffs are also a plus too help keep excessive water out. Also look for an adjustable waist and a durable outer shell to resist chafing from a chest pack and the elements.

- Mark DeFrank

Choosing a Steelhead Fly Rod

Line Weight

When it comes to single-hand fly rods, I suggest at least a 9 1/2' preferably a 10' model in 7 wt. or 8 wt. on large class rivers with fast current. This provides the angler with enough leverage to turn and fight steelhead, maintain line control and cast large flies if necessary.

Action

A mid flex action would be my strong suggestion for the novice steelhead angler. This may limit you from complete domination of the fight lacking the ability to turn a fish on a dime, but it will allow some give for the mind blowing surges they are know for resulting in less fish broke off. However, the down side of a slower action rod means more effort is needed in casting resulting in fatiguing earlier.

A moderate fast to fast action rod is what I prefer. The faster the action the lighter the rod, less fatigue and more domination of the fight. As fellow guide Eric Null would say "Bring the Hate".

Rod Components

As far as components used on a rod all play into how light and durable they are - granted fancy components do add bling, but not necessarily function. All the best components of a high end rod won't catch the fish for you, it's how much do you want to indulge yourself and enjoy the sport to the fullest.

A new classification, called "switch rods" bridge the gap between Spey rods and single-hand rods. They may be fished with one or two hands. Switch rods are normally 11-feet long.

Choosing a Steelhead Reel

Choose a large arbor design for fast line pick up on those right at you runs. Precise, smooth, low-inertia drag-systems really pay for themselves. Reels with waterproof drag systems are best. Smooth operation and total reliability are the two most important factors when choosing a reel. The reel as a component is the greatest factor which determines the difference between victory and defeat when encountering really large fish.

Steelhead reels should hold a fly line and 150 yds. of backing. Sealed ball bearings take less maintenance than bronze bushings. Disk drags are proven. Anodizing outlasts any kind of coating. Machined frames are stronger and more durable than castings. Drags have to work smoothly when wet.

If I had to choose where I spent more money on a steelhead set up, I would invest more in my reel opposed to the rod.

Choosing a Trout Fly Rod

Choosing a rod for trout can be quite simple. First of all, if it is your first fly rod you are looking to purchase the question at hand is what type of water will you most likely be fishing. Weight and length of fly rods for trout should fall within the 2wt - 6wt and 6 1/2' - 9' ranges.

Weight Class

The weight class (wt) simply depicts how heavy the rod is. The smaller the number the lighter the rod, the larger the number the heavier the rod. Of course the exact weights vary slightly between rod manufacturers due to the taper of the rods, types of graphite and other components such as line guides and so on.

Action of the Rod

Here it gets a little more complicated, as different manufacturers call the action of their rod different things. But basically action can be broken down into slow, moderate and fast. Many manufacturers have 4 classifications, but they all are based on the same concept. And that is how much of the rod will bend when casting.

Fast (or tip flex) rods will have only the tip bend, they offer the longest casting distances, they also are great if you are fishing in the wind. They allow for tighter casting loops, they are great for shooting head lines, double-hauling casting techniques and are a treat for the skilled caster. They are however, harder to learn on and therefore not recommended for one's first fly rod.

Moderate fast action is a medium between tip flex and mid flex.

Medium action (or mid flex) is the most popular action being sold today. They flex further down the rod than the fast action. Great for beginners, it is also the choice of most experienced angler's who don't own a bunch of rods. For beginners they are forgiving to learn on, providing more accuracy then the super fast rod. They don't cast as far however, and you will battle the wind more in this type rod.

Slow action rods often bend all the way to the grip. They don't cast very far, but you don't need to be too concerned if all you plan on fishing is smaller streams, but what they do best is absorb shock, so your tippet doesn't get as stressed, therefore your chances of snapping off the fly or loosing a fish are reduced.

Small Streams

If all you plan on fishing is very small streams, then I suggest you go with a 6 1/2' - 7 1/2' 2wt, 3wt or 4wt.

Medium to large streams or rivers

The most common size fly rod for trout is a 8 1/2' 5wt and will do great for most of your trout fishing on medium to larger streams and even do some panfish and limited bass fishing, meaning your ability to cast large bass fly patterns will not be easy and almost impossible for the very large patterns.

Very large rivers

For large rivers with a fast current you may want to go with a 9' 5wt or even a 9' 6wt. for castability and fighting fish in strong currents.

- Mark DeFrank

Choosing a Fly Reel for Trout

There are so many good fly reels on the market today it can make a beginners head spin.

The Frame

Frames machined out of high grade solid bar stock with an anodized finish are stronger and more durable than castings and will last.

Appeal

Other than functionality, lets face it, we like our toys and we like them to look nice.

The Drag

If the trout you plan on fishing for are not going to exceed two or three pounds then a drag is really not too important, however a sealed disc drag is the best.

Matching the Reel to the Rod

The reel should balance in weight with the fly rod and make the whole outfit feel comfortable. Reels that are too heavy or too light are a distraction that can effect your casting and add to fatigue. Generally short rods balance better with lighter weight reels and longer rods with heavier ones.

- Mark DeFrank

Choosing a Fly Line

There are hundreds of types of fly lines on the market, completely overwhelming the novice and perhaps even the more advanced angler. With this infomative advice I hope to shed a little light on the subject of choosing the proper line. They come in a choice of colors, types of cores, coatings and tapers and that is what we will be highlighting here.

Colors

The spectrum is vast from bright pastels to drab earth tones. I choose the earth tones fishing for trout and steelhead to keep from spooking fish as I cast over them, while fishing on the flats I will choose shades of white and blues for the same reason.

Cores

It's the core of the fly line that determines its tensile strength, as well as how much it stretches. It also helps determine how stiff the line will be. I have found that a mono core will have more memory at cooler temperatures compared to a braided core. Strength of all line cores are built to be much stronger than the heaviest tippets that are likely to be used with them. For example: a 2 or 3 weight line will normally break at about 20 lbs.; a heavy saltwater line core may test over 40 lbs.

Coating

How a line coating is formulated, and how it is applied to the line's core, determines the rest of the line's performance characteristics.

One of the most basic and important functions of the line coating is to provide the casting weight needed to load the fly rod. Precise weight standards are set by the fishing tackle industry; the right amount of coating must be applied to each line in order to meet this standard. It is primarily the density of the line's coating that determines whether the line will float or sink. Floating lines have special micro balloons mixed into their coatings that allow for accurate control of line density. Lines that are lighter than water will float. But if too many micro balloons are added, the thicker diameter of the line will make it more wind resistant, making it harder to cast. The optimum density is one that strikes a balance between the floatability and castability of the line. Newer floating fly lines also employ hydrophobic agents to make their coating water-resistant. These lines actually repel water, making them float higher than other lines of the same density.

Conversely, sinking lines incorporate a high-density material into their coatings to make them heavier than water. Although very expensive, powered tungsten is most often used because it is denser and more environmentally friendly than lead. By precisely controlling the formulation of how much metal powder is added to the fly line coating, sink rates from as little as 1.25 inches per second to as much as 10 inches per second can be achieved.

Fly line coatings also contain the pigments, which determine the visibility of the fly line to both the angler and the fish.

Taper

The fly line's shape or taper determines how energy is transmitted and dissipated during casting. By varying the lengths and diameters of the various parts of the line, specific performance attributes can be accentuated.

Tip: a short 6-12 inch level section where you attach your leader. This section's role is to protect the line's taper. Since many anglers cut off a small part of fly line when they change leaders, the level tip allows these changes without shortening the front taper and altering the way the line casts.

Front Taper: this is the section of the line that determines how delicately or powerfully the fly is delivered. Typically, 4-8 feet long, it decreases in diameter from the Belly section to the Tip. This graduation of the line's mass (weight) determines its ability to transfer you casting energy.

Belly: because it is the widest diameter and longest length, this section is where most of the weight of a line is located and, consequently, where your casting energy is carried.

Rear Taper: decreasing in diameter from the thicker belly section to the much smaller diameter running line section, the rear taper creates the transition so important to casting smoothness.

Head: this term is used to describe the combination of front taper, belly and rear taper

Running Line: this section exists primarily to make distance casting easier. Since a Double Taper (DT) line is essentially a long belly with tapers at both ends, there is no running line by definition. This large diameter belly line does not shoot through the rod guides easily. A smaller diameter, lighter weight line creates less friction. The running line portion of Weight Forward (WF) and Shooting Taper (ST) configuration fills this role. The Head is extended through the tip of the rod. The rod is loaded with the weight of the Head. Further extension of the fly line is accomplished by stripping line from the reel and then 'shooting' it through the guides.

When choosing a line for the fishing that you plan to do, there are several taper options to consider: Level (L), Weight Forward (WF), Double Taper (DT), Shooting Taper (ST). Specialty Tapers are variations of Weight Forward and Double Tapers. Weight Forward configurations are most popular for a variety of reasons and have more variations. Lets look at the performance you'll get from each option.

Level (L) has no taper design at all, and this line has in most situations, very low performance characteristics. It transfers energy very erratically and is hard to control while casting. The best function of level lines is in the form of fine diameter Shooting Lines or in inexpensive sinking lines to be cut up for tips for custom lines.

The Weight Forward (WF) design allows you to make short to long casts (20-80 feet) with normal size flies. Most anglers find that Weight Forward lines are versatile and work well over a wide range of conditions. This type of design comes in many configurations to meet specialized situations or perceived presentational improvements. Any line whether floating or sinking which has a Head and Running Line section which are seamlessly joined can be termed a Weight Forward fly line. Rocket Tapers, Bass Bug Tapers, Saltwater Tapers, Steelhead Tapers, Triangle Tapers and Teeny Tapers are all weight Forward Fly Lines.

Double Taper (DT) is a reversible fly line with an identical taper at both ends. Easy to mend and roll cast. Most useful on moving water. This style of line is designed for short to medium casts (20-50 feet) with normal size flies. Floating lines are popular in this configuration.

Shooting Taper, also called Shooting Head, fly lines consist of two separate lines which are joined with a loop to loop junction. The front portion (or head) is the same configuration as the head (first 30') of a Weight Forward fly line. The second portion consists of a fine diameter Running Line. Its purpose is to cut friction in both the rod guides and in the water.

Triangle Taper Designed by Lee Wulff, has s a continuous forward taper in the head of the line. Head length can vary from 27 to 80 feet depending on the line weight and proposed application. Many anglers believe these designs provide the most efficient transfer of casting energy over a wide range of distances. As the loop unrolls, heavier line is constantly turning over lighter line.

- Mark DeFrank

Understanding Leaders

Having an understanding of leader material and a practiced knowledge of reliable fishing knots is as important to the angler as knowing how to cast. The leader and knots are the most fragile link between you and your fish. Frayed leader material, tangles, wind knots or a badly tied knot can release your trophy prematurely. The leader and knots must be checked constantly while fishing. Any problem areas should be repaired as soon as they are noticed. A properly designed fly leader enables the angler to deliver the fly with precision. The leader should provide a strong, nearly invisible link between the fly line and the fly. The correctly designed fly leader transfers energy from the fly line to the fly in a predictable manner. Basic fly leader design incorporates a large diameter butt section, a gradually tapering midsection and a terminal tippet based on intended use. You will be a more successful angler with a working knowledge of leader design and application. With a knowledge of proper knots, a store of the proper materials and a blue print to work from you can build your own fly leaders.

BASIC LEADER DESIGN

The leader butt attaches directly to the fly line and must be of a diameter similar to the end of the fly line to transfer energy from the fly line to the rest of the leader smoothly. The graduated mid-section transfers the energy from the butt section to the leader's tippet. The butt and mid-section are designed as a delivery system for the tippet and fly. The tippet is the leader's single most important component. The tippet size and type are determined by the fish and fishing conditions. Commercially made knotless tapered fly leaders are alright for many applications but for some situations it is better to make your own leaders by knotting together sections of monofilament and/or fluorocarbon.

Generally speaking leaders that are made for delivering a fly with authority are 60% butt, 20% mid-section and 20% tippet. Leaders that are designed for soft presentations or to combat drag have shorter butts and have longer mid-sections and tippets.

BUILDING YOUR OWN TAPERED LEADERS

A properly designed fly leader enables the angler to deliver the fly with precision. The leader should also provide a strong, nearly invisible link between the fly line and the fly. A correctly designed fly leader transfers energy from the fly line to the fly in a predictable manner. The leader butt attaches directly to the fly line and must be of a diameter and stiffness similar to the end of the fly line, so as to transfer energy from the fly line to the rest of the leader smoothly. The graduated mid-section transfers the energy from the butt section to the leader's tippet. The butt and mid-section are designed as a delivery system for the tippet and fly. The tippet is the leader's single most important component. The tippet size and type are determined by the fish size and fishing conditions. You will be a more successful angler with a working knowledge of leader design and application. With a knowledge of proper knots, a store of the proper materials and a blue print to work from, you can build your own fly leaders to any configuration needed to catch any fish.

Most fly casters would agree that being able to throw narrow loops is an advantage when generating fly line speed for long accurate casts. In many cases having a leader at the end of the line that allows the tight loop energy to flow from the line to the fly and places the leader perfectly straight on the water is also an advantage, but not always. High velocity leaders are an advantage when casting flies that will be retrieved or fished under tension. However, a leader that dissipates energy and falls with slack may be more appropriate for dry fly fishing drag free. Such a leader may land on the water with gentle "S" curves that buffer drag. How a leader casts and lands can be dictated by design. How a leader turns over and straightens in the air is determined by casting presentation, leader taper and leader material. The last two factors are constructed into the leader its self.

A leader that is made from stiff material will transmit more energy than a leader made from soft pliable material. Large diameter material will hold more energy than small diameter material.

Generally speaking leaders that are made for delivering a fly with authority are 60% butt, 20% mid-section and 20% tippet, as stated above. They can be made entirely from a stiff material such as Maxima Chameleon. Leaders that are designed for softer presentations or to combat drag have shorter butts and have longer mid-sections and tippets. The butt and part of the mid-section is made from Maxima Chameleon, but part of the mid-section and the tippet are made from a softer material such as Umpqua tippet material. For even softer presentations the butt of the leader is shortened and the tippet and mid-sections are lengthened.

The leader formulas given here are only presented as guide-lines. You could build leaders that are as little as 40% or even 30% butt. Be advised though that as the butt sections get shorter and the taper and tippet get longer, the leader will become harder to cast.

How to choose a landing net

The quarry may be Trout or Steelhead, regardless I want a net that has a rubber coated mesh or rubber net. I have spent too much time doing surgery on the mesh digging a fly out that has decided to tangle into the cord especially when I'm running a double rig. My choice of Trout net is shown on the left. When I choose a steelhead net I am more concerned with the features, such as a sturdy frame, an extension handle and of course the rubber coating on the mesh. A measurement scale is an added bonus. The coated mesh is much easier on the fish by preserving the slimy film that protects them from bacterial growth.

- Mark DeFrank